Tuesday, March 31, 2009


the bands of muscles strapped across my shins unleashed a burning scream against the current wanting to waver like strands of seaweed in the tide. if i let myself stop and pay attention to my body it was heaving. my lungs were burning, filling my mouth with the taste of metallic blood as if i had just finished the annual high school mile. and when I went to use my arms they shook and wobbled beneath the weight of my body. but none of that mattered once i was perched upon the board that was perched upon a wave that was headed toward shore. my arms stretched long away from the sides of my body and the sea pushed me along with its natural course. ending seemed impossible, but when it did I rolled back into the sea and saw only the line of rollers waiting to take me for another ride, and the pleas of my body fell away as i mounted the next wave.

1 comment:

  1. Hey!
    Nice post, you did a wonderful job,I am only interested in surfing but I did not try it, because I am afraid of the high wave, it gives me a sense of risk.So I oly enjoy it to watch on TV or others surfing. Thanks for sharing us.